Green Magic in the Kitchen: Cooking with Spring Plants

Roasted asparagus

From ancient times, the spring season has been greeted with ceremony and rituals along with the gathering of all fresh, wild edibles, which were inevitably green (since most plant activity begins with green buds and shoots). In fact, all of the common greens we see in stores and markets today have their origins in wild plants native to Europe, Africa, Asia, or the Americas.

For example, from the common wild colewort plant of Europe, selective breeding produced Brussels sprouts, our common cabbage, broccoli, and kohlrabi.

But where does the magic come into our consciousness? The ancients saw magic in the cycle of life, the seasons, the celestial movement, and the phenomena of life and death. It was likely that the mystery of the green pulse pushing up through the brown earth caused the search for meaning in all growing things. Religious rites, folklore, myths, and spells are almost as ancient as the herbs, potherbs, vegetables, flowers, and trees themselves. So it’s not a stretch to assume that some of that primal knowledge has survived in our collective consciousness to this day.

In fact, the sacred aspect of plant wisdom – or green magic – is part of every native or aboriginal belief system. Some scientists, in particular James Lovelock, are taking the view that Earth creates and maintains precise environmental conditions favourable to its existence (the Gaia theory) and is a living organism, interconnected and interdependent. In short, Earth and all living things are miracles of life – and that is what I call pure magic.

For me, the magic is most vibrant in spring, when life is being renewed and the outer world is greening. The astringent, cleansing action of greens is particularly valuable after the winter season of feasts, vegetable scarcity, and fasts. Even more importantly, their inherent goodness (greens are low in fat and high in vitamins, minerals and antioxidants) makes it seem as though they work miracles on the body.

“Come to the mountains, and we will show you the way of the past, and the future. We will show you the plants of healing, the plants to paint with, and a place meant only for you to sit and listen for your songs, your strength. We will let you look into nature, as it really is, not what you see it to be! Here you will learn how to be who you really are. Making this journey will give you a high that nothing can compare to, for I can give you all the things that are needed to take care of you and yours.”

– Listener of the Wind, Kenneth Cooper, “Gaia’s Hidden Life: The Unseen Intelligence of Nature”

Magic Spring Greens

ARTICHOKES (Cynara scolymus): are the unopened flower buds of a thistle plant. The tender inner tips of the green bracts are considered a delicacy. While they do take some effort to trim and prepare, artichokes are a good source of iron, magnesium, potassium, and vitamin C.

ASPARAGUS (Asparagus officinalis): is a tall, feathery leaf perennial plant that grows well in northern climates. In the spring, when temperatures rise above 55°F (13°C), it sends up stalks from the thick roots. As the stalk emerges and meets with sunlight, the colour turns from white to purple-green as the chlorophyll is activated. An excellent source of the B vitamin folate, asparagus is also a good source of dietary fibre, vitamin A, and vitamin C. Ed. note: For a recipe on how to roast asparagus, visit:  https://www.allrecipes.com/recipe/214931/oven-roasted-asparagus/

DANDELION (Taraxacum officinale): The best time to collect wild (pesticide-free) dandelions is right now, before the flowers arrive and the bitter quality of the leaves intensifies. You get one more chance in the fall, when fresh foliage appears, but their off-the-chart levels of vitamin A and vitamin C, along with vitamins B and E, potassium, magnesium, niacin, calcium, phosphorus, proteins, resin, iron, sulphur, and zinc make for a great spring tonic. Dandelion leaves stimulate the body to eliminate waste and toxins.

FIDDLEHEADS (Matteuccia struthiopteris): are the unfurled fronds of the Ostrich Fern, found growing in the wild along the northeastern U.S. to Newfoundland, and west into Michigan. The season for fresh fiddleheads varies from region to region and year to year, but generally they begin to appear in markets around the beginning of May. I do not recommend canning fiddleheads because the result is soft and brown, but freezing is an excellent way to preserve them.

Dr. Richard Béliveau, director of the Molecular Medicine Laboratory of the Charles-Bruneau Cancer-ology Centre at Montreal’s Sainte Justine University, and author of the bestselling book Foods That Fight Cancer, says: “Studies done in our lab indicate that (their) nutrients make fiddleheads one of the most antioxidant vegetables out there and they can play a significant role in hindering the growth of cells that lead to several types of cancer.”

sorrel leaves

SORREL (Rumex acetosa): If your local market gardener is growing greens, chances are they will have sorrel  because it is a perennial. Often puréed as a sauce for fish, sorrel can be used wherever spinach is called for in recipes. Sorrel delivers potassium, vitamin A, iron, vitamin C, and plenty of chlorophyll to the body.

Caution: the sour citrus tang of both spinach and sorrel is due to oxalic acid in these greens. Be sure to cook sorrel and avoid mature leaves or refrain from eating sorrel if you have kidney problems.

SWISS CHARD (Beta vulgaris cicla): Like a rainbow, the ruffled, spear-shaped Swiss chard  leaves display their red, white, pale green, gold or pink ribs. The ribs are often cooked separately from the leaves, which range from deep forest green to apple green or dark crimson tones to yellow-tinged. Regardless of the variety, chard is a good source of beta carotene, vitamin C, and some B vitamins along with iron, potassium, sodium, and magnesium.

RECIPES

How To Cook Fiddleheads

Gather wild foods from areas of abundance, leaving most of the colony to reproduce naturally. There are some organic farms with fiddleheads in cultivation and it is preferable to purchase from ethical growers than from wildcrafters who do not respect the ways of wild plants. Try to use fiddleheads as soon as you get them because their nutrients are lost over time in storage. Rub the outer brown covering off and swish fiddleheads in cool water to remove sand or grit. Cook in simmering water or steam for about 3 min. or until crisp-tender.

---

Champagne-Raspberry Vinaigrette

Champagne, Raspberry, Herb Vinaigrette

In my view, dressings must be worthy of the spring-fresh salad greens and vegetables that burst with fresh-tasting vitality. This sweet-tart and pink vinaigrette, with its own vibrancy, is the perfect match for a green spring mélange. In its simplest form, vinaigrette is an emulsion made from oil, vinegar and salt with no emulsifier used to keep the oil and vinegar from separating. Often Dijon mustard is added along with traditional herbs such as tarragon, thyme, and marjoram.

Creative chefs and kitchen gardeners are now experimenting with different cold pressed oils, fruited vinegars, puréed vegetables and other less traditional flavours to make exceptional vinaigrettes with zing. The ratio of vinegar to oil is usually one part vinegar to three parts oil. When lemon juice is used in place of the vinegar, the ratio would change to two parts lemon juice to three parts oil. In a bowl, whisk together the raspberry vinegar, champagne, mustard, herbs, salt and pepper in a small bowl.  Whisking constantly, add the oil in a slow, steady stream until completely incorporated.

• 3 Tbsp sweet raspberry vinegar
• 2 Tbsp champagne or sparkling white wine
• 1 Tbsp honey Dijon mustard
• 1 Tbsp finely chopped fresh tarragon or thyme
• 1/4 tsp freshly ground sea salt
• pinch freshly ground pepper
• 3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil or nut oil

1) In a bowl, whisk together the raspberry vinegar, champagne, mustard, herbs, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Whisking constantly, add the oil in a slow, steady stream until completely incorporated.