Aromatic Oregano and Marjoram – Growing and Cooking Tips

The sweetness of pot marjoram and the fiery peppered essence of Greek oregano seems to sing with the notes of Peloponnese and the mountains of Crete

The International Herb Association named the genus Origanum “Herb of the Year” in 2005. This put them in very good company. Venus, Greek goddess of love, adored sweet marjoram – an Origanum – and grew it on Mount Olympus, naming it joy (ganos) of the mountains (oros).

When I learned this, everything I felt and thought about marjoram and oregano made sense. Of course the sweetness of pot marjoram and the fiery peppered essence of Greek oregano seemed to sing with the notes of Peloponnese and the mountains of Crete. Of course their warming presence in the garden and kitchen radiated with the sun-dappled exuberance of a culture so expressive and good-natured. Of course these herbs from the land of legend and myth made me smile.

Origanum plants belong to the Lamiaceae, a family important for aromatic herbs such as basil, lavender, mint, rosemary, sage and thyme — all culinary heavy hitters. Thymol and carvacrol are the active components in common oregano (O. vulgare) that not only flavour the leaves, but make them important medicinally.

James Duke, respected ethnobotanist, advised: “In a test of nearly 100 plants in the mint family, of which oregano is a member, the pizza herb was the one that had the greatest total antioxidant activity.” This gives it effective preservative and anti-aging qualities.

Oregano’s essential oil is fungistatic and bacteriostatic, making it a powerful antiseptic both internally and externally. Oregano oil is effective in treating a wide spectrum of ailments including acne, swollen glands, arthritis, asthma, insect bites, parasites, muscle pain, cough, diarrhea, E-coli, earache, and viral infections.

Oil of Oregano is generally safe to use externally, but Penny Beaudrow, medical herbalist, cautions against taking it internally because it may damage the mucous membranes along the digestive tract.

Not to be outdone, the essential oil of marjoram (O. majorana) contains terpinen, linalool, carvacrol and thymol. Sweet marjoram improves blood circulation and speeds healing due to its ability to increase white blood corpuscles. Its anti-inflammatory action on mucus membranes has been used to relieve nasal congestion (it was added to snuff, presumably for that reason).

Marjoram oil is safe, calming, and warming, great in steam inhalations to treat bronchitis and colds. It also helps with insomnia, tension, high blood pressure and headaches because of its strong sedative properties.

Growing Oregano

Many people don’t realize that there are over three dozen Origanum plants, and one of the most common, O. vulgare, is useless in the kitchen. Also known as “wild” or “hardy” marjoram, this species is often sold in nurseries, so be very careful because once established, like all members of the mint family, oreganos are difficult to purge from the garden.

Although propagated by seed, root division, or by cuttings, I find it best to purchase plants from a reliable source (see Resource List at end). Conrad Richter, owner of Richters Herbs in Goodwood, Ontario says, “Oreganos thrive in full sun, in light medium-rich soil that drains well and is kept to the dry side. Oreganos love heat. Most are hardy in zones 7 to 9 and many tolerate warmer zones . . . Fortunately, some of the best varieties are hardy to zone 5 which means that much of North America can grow oregano as an over-wintering perennial.”

Good news indeed for Canadians who want to grow this celebrity herb. Here are my picks for Oregano plants for a kitchen herb garden:

• SWEET MARJORAM (O. majorana) – aromatic, spicy, sweet flavour blends well with other herbs; use with potatoes, fish, egg dishes, stuffing, pasta, dumplings and salads.

• POT MARJORAM (O. onites) – also known as Rigani or Greek oregano, has a hot, bold taste that makes it good for long-cooking and stronger flavoured dishes such as tomato sauces, soups, stews.

• ITALIAN OREGANO  (O. x majoricum) – a sterile hybrid with large oval leaves, deep green in colour; warm, spicy, yet sweet and fragrant flavour – a good, all-round oregano for the kitchen.

• GREEK OREGANO  (O. vulgare subsp. hirtum) – hot, resinous, strong pungent flavour makes it good for tomato sauces (it’s the “pizza herb”); watch out though, it bites!

• GOLDEN OREGANO. (O. vulgare “Aureum”), or Gold Crisp (O. vulgare “Aureum crispum”) – both are gorgeous golden in colour and while their flavour is very mild, making them useful only in salads and as garnish, they really are stunning in the garden and on the plate.

Cooking with Oregano

I picture oregano as a masculine, almost savage herb, standing ground on a steep hillside, fighting cypress trees and wild goats to claim a spot in the sun. It inhabits the ghoulish craters of the Canary Islands, grows in patches near Sicily’s smoldering volcanoes, and clings to ditches along Moroccan roadsides. When I cook with oregano, I know I am adding a tenacious herb with bite and spice, one worthy of hearty sauces and outdoor grills, one that can measure up to piquant olives, hot peppers and hearty beans.

On the other hand, feminine marjoram is pliant and adaptable, a proper descendant of the graceful nymph Menthe, unwitting founder of the mint family, to which Origanum belongs. Marjoram is an amiable herb, sympathetically relinquishing her fragrant, bitter-sweet oils. With undertones of pine and balsam, marjoram gives character to eggs, bland cheeses, pastas, and biscuits. But for all her daintiness, marjoram is surprisingly wily, keeping her aroma in all but the strongest of dishes.

Like all good mints, marjoram and oregano complement legumes (peas, beans, lentils, and garbanzos). Soups, stews, casseroles, stuffings, vegetarian fare, in fact, all the descendants of long-simmering cassoulets from the Mediterranean region benefit from their dance with the joyous mountain herbs we call oregano and marjoram.

RESEARCHERS HAVE FOUND THAT A COMPOUND IN OREGANO OIL, CARVACROL, IS EFFECTIVE AGAINST THE NOROVIRUS

Oregano Recipes

Oregano and tomatoes are such a natural, complementary combination that I have included mostly tomato recipes here. Some use canned tomatoes and those recipes will get you started cooking with oregano right away. For the other recipes, patience is necessary because you must wait until the fresh ruby orbs are in season. Fortunately, your new oregano plants will be abundantly producing at the same time. Trust me. You will be glad to have lots of recipes for these prolific and flavourful herbs.

MINESTRONE SOUP

From Italy, where many North Americans first tasted oregano, comes the inspiration for this hearty soup. As soon as local fresh spring peas, new potatoes, and asparagus become available, substitute them for the green beans and chickpeas. (Makes 6 servings.)

2 Tbsp olive oil
1 sweet onion (Vidalia or Bermuda), coarsely chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 medium zucchini, coarsely chopped
2 stalks celery, coarsely chopped
1 red pepper, coarsely chopped
4 cups vegetable or chicken stock
1 can (19 oz/540 mL) tomatoes
1 cup green beans, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
3 Tbsp chopped fresh oregano
2 cups washed spinach leaves
1 can (19 oz/540 mL) chickpeas, rinsed and drained
3 Tbsp each: chopped fresh parsley and basil
salt and pepper to taste

In a large soup pot, heat olive oil and sauté onion over medium heat until soft, about 15 minutes. Stir in garlic, zucchini, celery, and red pepper and cook another 5 minutes. Stir in stock, tomatoes, green beans, and oregano. Increase heat to high, bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 7 minutes, until beans are just tender.

Stir in spinach, canned beans, parsley and basil, and cook another 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

GRILLED EGGPLANT AND TOMATO SALAD

Heritage tomatoes are perfect in this salad because the lemon in the dressing and the subtle eggplant allow the rich tomato essence to come through. Shredded fresh basil and feta cheese are also great additions. (Makes 4 servings.)

1 medium eggplant, peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick
1 Tbsp salt
4 tomatoes, cored, sliced and cut into strips
1/2 cup Lemon Dressing (recipe below)
salt and pepper to taste

Preheat oven broiler to 475°F and raise oven rack to top position; lightly oil a baking sheet.

Rinse eggplant slices in a large colander, sprinkle with salt. Set aside for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, make dressing using recipe below.

Rinse and pat eggplant dry, place in one layer on baking sheet. Drizzle 3 tablespoons Lemon Dressing over eggplant slices; grill 2 minutes under broiler, just until browned. Turn slices over and broil to brown other side. Remove eggplant from oven and cool.

Cut eggplant into strips and place in a large salad bowl. Add tomato strips, drizzle with remaining dressing and toss to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Lemon Dressing

1/2 cup olive oil
2 Tbsp fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp maple syrup
1 Tbsp each: chopped fresh “golden” oregano, lemon thyme and marjoram
1 tsp chopped fresh lemon balm
1/2 tsp salt
In a small bowl or small clean jar with tight-fitting lid, combine all dressing ingredients. Whisk or shake to mix well. Makes 1/2 cup

TOMATO WITH MARJORAM-INFUSED GOAT CHEESE

Toss this delicious dish with 2 cups fresh greens or sautéed mushrooms, then grind black pepper and sea salt over the mixture and enjoy as a salad. Stuff into a pita pocket, wrap, or French loaf, or spread on top of bruschetta; or float a slice of the marjoram-infused cheese on a bowl of creamy tomato soup. It is so good, you will want to have lots on hand not only when tomatoes are ripe, but also to use in other recipes that call for goat cheese. Freezing the goat cheese for 20 – 30 minutes makes it easier to slice.

3 Tbsp chopped fresh sweet marjoram
1/4 cup olive oil
5 oz (150 g) soft goat cheese, sliced
4 large summer tomatoes
1 small red or Vidalia onion, thinly sliced
2 Tbsp fresh lemon juice or Balsamic vinegar
salt and pepper to taste

Using a mortar and pestle, or small bowl and wooden spoon, bruise the marjoram by pressing on the chopped herb. Drizzle oil over marjoram and mix well, mashing herb with pestle or spoon. Add cheese slices to mortar and toss to mix with oil and marjoram. Cover and set in refrigerator at least one hour or overnight.

When ready to serve, return cheese to room temperature. Meanwhile, cut tomatoes in half and squeeze to remove seeds (discard seeds). Cut tomatoes in wedges and place in a large salad bowl. Add onion and goat cheese in marjoram oil; drizzle lemon juice over, toss to combine; taste and season with salt and pepper.

RED SNAPPER WITH TOMATO AND OREGANO

This version of tomato sauce includes red peppers. Use roasted red peppers to add a richer, smokier taste. For convenience, use a can (28 oz/796 mL) chopped tomatoes. (Makes 4 servings.)

1 (2 lb/1 kg) red snapper with head, tail, and fins removed

1 Tbsp olive oil
Sauce
2 Tbsp olive oil
1 medium onion, sliced
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 red pepper, cored, seeded and diced
1 lb (500 g) tomatoes, peeled and chopped
3 Tbsp chopped fresh oregano
1 Tbsp honey
1/4 cup finely ground almonds
1/4 cup chopped fresh basil
salt and pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 375° F; lightly oil a baking pan.

Rinse fish, pat dry, place in oiled pan and rub with 1 tablespoon olive oil; set aside until about 10 to 20 minutes before serving time.

Meanwhile, make tomato sauce. In a large skillet, heat oil over medium heat, stir in onion and garlic. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook until soft, about 10 minutes.

Add red pepper and cook another 3 minutes. Stir in tomatoes, oregano, and honey; bring to the boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes, or until sauce is thickened. Stir in ground almonds and basil; season to taste with salt and pepper.

Bake fish in preheated oven for 10 minutes for each inch of thickness. Fish is done when the flesh turns opaque and flakes easily with a fork. Remove fish to a warm platter and spoon sauce over. Serve immediately.