If we lived between the years 500 and 1500 A.D., we would be very familiar with colewort, a leafy green plant widely cultivated all over Europe, the Mediterranean and England. A lowly potherb (a variety of herbaceous plant whose leaves or stems or flowers are suitable for cooking in a pot with a meat or vegetable broth), colewort was part of every household’s garden and not in the money economy. This meant it did not show up in the household tally of spices, salt and meats in account books of the time. Yet in the day-to-day diet of the working people, it was a leading player.
The Brassica oleracea species of plants – kale, cabbage, kohlrabi, cauliflower, broccoli and Brussels sprouts – are all modern descendants of the ancient wild colewort that belongs to the Cruciferous family, so named due to their cross-shaped (crucifer) flower petals. At least five centuries before Christ, colewort plants were cultivated. And by continually selecting and re-seeding from plants with the largest leaves, the large-leaved kale plant (B. oleracea acephala), “cabbage of the vegetable garden without a head” evolved.
When plants with a tight cluster of tender young leaves at the top of the stem were singled out, our modern cabbage head (B. oleracea capitata), “cabbage of the vegetable garden with a head,” began to appear. At the same time, Germans were favouring colewort plants with fat stems and from those kohlrabi (B. oleracea caulorapa) or “cabbage of the vegetable garden like stem turnip,” developed.
Later, around the 15th century, cauliflower (B. oleracea botrytis) evolved and a century later, broccoli (B. oleracea italica) made its way into the soup pot. When cabbage plants in Belgium were selected for their clusters of tightly packed leafy buds along the main stem and grew into Brussels sprouts, they were called B. oleracea gemmifera, meaning “cabbage of the vegetable garden bearing gems.”
GROWING AND USING THE CABBAGE
Cabbage grows well in cool climates, yields large harvests and stores well in winter, making it an important winter vegetable. Requiring only three months’ growing time, one acre of cabbage will yield more edible vegetables than any other plant. Preferring fertile, well-drained soil with a pH in the range of 6.5 to 7.5, cabbage seeds may be sown during a long cool period in the fall for winter harvest. Plant hardened seedlings two to three weeks before the average date of the last frost in the spring.
All varieties of cabbage are available year-round in most markets. Fresh cabbage has loose outer leaves around a firm center head and should feel heavy for their size. Older cabbage does not have the outer wrapper leaves and tends to be paler in colour. Cabbage will keep for up to two weeks in a vented plastic bag in the refrigerator. Wash and cut or slice just before serving. To freeze cabbage, coarsely shred and blanch in boiling water for 2 minutes. Remove and run under cold water and drain well. Pack into airtight containers and freeze for up to six months. Use frozen cabbage in stocks, soups and stews.
Celery seed, mustard seed, nutmeg, savory, tarragon, chervil, garlic, caraway seed, thyme, parsley and sage are herbs that complement cabbage. Cabbage pairs well with potatoes, leeks, onions, carrots, parsnips, fennel and beets as well as with corned beef, lamb and pork.
NEW AGE POTTAGE
Pottage was a dish of colewort and other potherbs, legumes or meat, or a combination of any/all of those ingredients, boiled in a broth from water. The pottage could simmer all day and the vegetables would be reduced almost to a puree (or mush) and it might be thin or enriched with whole grains, eggs or cheese to make it thicker. The pottage vegetables were served in a bread trencher or with a hunk of bread, the broth, and some of the meat if any.
Science has shown that the cabbages – yellow, white, green, purple and red, round-headed, conical-headed, curly and fringed – are high in vitamins K and C and are of benefit to the liver. Cabbage contains indoles: specialized, naturally occurring nitrogenous compounds known to lower the risk of a variety of cancers including lung, colon, breast and ovarian cancer. Cabbage juice is significant in preventing and healing ulcers. Cabbage contains manganese, vitamins B1 (thiamin), B2 (riboflavin), B6 (pyridoxine), folate, omega-3 fatty acids, calcium, potassium, vitamin A, tryptophan, protein and magnesium.
The very potent sulfur-containing compound called sinigrin in Brassica vegetables is part of an intricate reaction within the body that detoxifies carcinogens but is also partly responsible for the strong sulphur odour from boiling cabbage. To get the most health benefit from cabbage, eat it raw in salads or thinly sliced and quickly sautéed or steamed with other vegetables and herbs.
CABBAGE MEASURES, SUBSTITUTIONS AND EQUIVALENTS:
l 1/4 pound cooked cabbage = 1 serving
l 1 medium head cabbage = 4 servings
l 1 medium head cabbage = about 2 pounds
l 1 pound raw cabbage = 2 cups cooked
l 1 pound fresh = 4 servings cooked
l 1 medium raw cabbage = 4 cups raw shredded
l 1 pound raw shredded = 9-10 servings raw
l 2 pound head cabbage = about 10 cups shredded
Cauli Verdi (translated from Libro Della Cocina, Santich, 117)
“Take the tips of fresh cabbage, boil them, remove them and fry in oil with sliced onion, the white part of fennel, and sliced apple. Add a little stock, serve it in bowls, and sprinkle with spices. You can also cook it with salted pork fat, cheese, poached eggs, and spices.”
The following recipe is inspired by the medieval version above.
(Serves 4)
2 Tbsp olive oil
12 Brussels sprouts, halved lengthwise cored and thinly sliced
1/2 fennel, thinly sliced
1/4 green cabbage, cored and thinly sliced
4 Tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice, divided
1 apple, shredded
3 Tbsp pure maple syrup, optional
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup toasted pecans or walnuts
In a large skillet, heat oil over high heat. Add brussels sprouts, fennel and cabbage. Sprinkle 2 Tbsp of the lemon juice over the greens and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Remove from heat and add apple, maple syrup if using, and remaining lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve garnished with pecans.
Vegetable Soup Stock
The backbone of whole, fresh cooking is often a good vegetable stock. One way to ensure a supply of vegetables for the stockpot is to freeze clean organic trimmings – the tougher asparagus or broccoli stalks, peelings, and leafy tops of celery – and drop them directly into the simmering stock. Similarly, freezing homemade stock in two or four-cup portions makes it easy to thaw and use in recipes.
The ingredients in the list below are only suggestions. Use vegetables, herbs and spices you have on hand and omit those you don’t have. Cooking with this broth boosts the nutrients in recipes. Use it in every recipe (even baked goods) that calls for water.
Roasting the onion, garlic and leek lends a more complex taste and rich colour to the stock. If time does not permit roasting, simply sauté onion, garlic and leek with oil in the stockpot first, then add all other items. Or, for an extremely easy and fat-free stock, omit the oil and toss all ingredients into the pot, simmer 1 hour and strain.
(Makes 8 cups)
Baking sheet
Large stockpot
1 onion, peeled and quartered
4 cloves garlic, peeled, left whole
1 leek, trimmed and cut in large chunks
2 Tbsp olive oil
8 cups water
Half green cabbage, quartered
1 cup coarsely chopped broccoli or asparagus stems, optional
1 celery stalk, cut in chunks
1 carrot, cut in chunks
1 apple, cut in chunks
1 whole dried cayenne pepper
6 fresh parsley sprigs
5 allspice berries
5 whole cloves
5 peppercorns
1 bay leaf
Few sprigs thyme
Few sprigs sage
3 dried astragalus root wafers
1 piece 1-inch ginger
1 piece 1-inch burdock root, optional
1 piece 1-inch dandelion root, optional
Preheat oven to 400° F (200° C)
On baking sheet, toss onion, garlic and leek with olive oil. Roast in preheated oven, stirring once, for 30 to 40 minutes or until vegetables are soft and brown (some edges may be charred).
In a large stockpot, bring water to a boil over high heat. Add all other ingredients including roasted vegetables. Cover, reduce heat and simmer 1 hour. Remove from heat, cool slightly. Strain off and discard solids. Cool stock completely and store.
Store: Refrigerate stock in clean jars with lids for up to 2 days or freeze in 2-cup portions in freezer containers for up to 2 months.
Omit: Any ingredient, except onion, garlic and cabbage. Potatoes and beets are not suitable for this broth.
Other vegetables to use: parsnips, mushrooms, rutabaga, fennel bulb, zucchini, tomatoes, kale, bok choy and Swiss chard.
To boost the potassium level of this stock, add sea vegetables (such as dulse, kelp, or nori), alfalfa, chamomile, burdock root, dandelion root, stinging nettles or plantain leaves.
To boost the calcium level of this stock, add sea vegetables (see list above), dandelion greens, kale, Swiss chard, or spinach.
Barley and Vegetable Ragout
For years, pearl barley was the only type widely available to North Americans. Milled six times to remove all traces of the grain’s outer husk and bran layer, pearl barley is white and cooks fast (in half the time as its more natural counterparts), but is bereft of nutrients. Now, hulled barley, the form with the bran layer intact and Scotch barley (milled three times) are finding their way into supermarkets as consumers ask for healthier forms of grains.
(Serves 6)
1 cup celery, chopped
1 cup carrots, chopped
1 cup parsnips, chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 onion, chopped
1 leek, white and tender green parts, chopped
3 Tbsp Basil Pesto, homemade or store bought
1/4 cup apple cider or apple juice
5 cups vegetable stock
1 cup hulled barley
1 cup tomato sauce
1 cup thinly sliced cabbage
1 cup cauliflower florets
3 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley
2 Tbsp chopped fresh basil
2 tsp fresh thyme leaves
1 tsp salt
Freshly ground pepper
In a large bowl, combine celery, carrots, parsnips, garlic, onion and leek. Toss with Basil Pesto.
In a large saucepan or soup pot, bring cider to a boil over high heat. Stir in pesto-coated vegetables. Reduce heat and simmer gently for 7 minutes or until cider is almost gone.
Stir in stock and bring to a boil over high heat. Add barley, cover, reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 40 minutes. Stir in tomato sauce, cabbage, cauliflower, parsley, basil, thyme, salt and pepper. Simmer gently for 12 minutes or until broccoli and cauliflower florets are just tender. Taste and add more salt and pepper if required. Serve hot.
Substitutions: Replace Basil Pesto with 2 Tbsp olive oil and 2 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley or oregano. Use turnip, zucchini or mushrooms in place of celery, carrots or parsnips.
References
- Black, Maggie. The Medieval Cookbook. New York, NY: Thames and Hudson Inc., 1992.
- Crocker, Pat. The Vegetarian Cook’s Bible. Toronto, ON: Robert Rose Publisher, 2007. All the recipes are adapted, with permission from this book.
- Freeman, Margaret. Herbs for the Medieval Household For Cooking, Healing and Divers Uses. New York, NY: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1979.
- Landsberb, Sylvia. The Medieval Garden. UK: British Museum Press.
- Santich, Barbara. The Original Mediterranean Cuisine. Medieval Recipes for Today. Devon, England: Prospect Books, 1995.
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